Not all soils are the same. You’ll get consistent results with this- we know because we use it in our custom-planted hanging baskets and pots. Use it for planting in the ground, in raised beds, or containers, straight from the bag. Buy 3 bags, get 1 more FREE!

Back by popular demand-

Maser Nursery Paydirt is on SALE!!! Buy 3 bags, get 1 more FREE! Let the neighbors know you are a real gardener- it doesn’t work if it doesn’t smell. thru 5/21

A JUICY SALE:

Juicy, sweet and tart are the hallmarks of a homegrown tomato. We have over 30 varieties ON SALE, buy 2 and get 1 more FREE! thru 5/21

WIMP

Many places sell wimpy, undersized, tiny and just plain ineffective tomato cages- not us, we are the home of giant cages- a virtual monument to manliness. Size does matter, always a free tomato plant with any cages.

Winding, twining, lacy tendrils adorned with masses of tropical-looking flowers. Clematis is one vine that gets noticed…..

We love the look of this when it’s allowed to clamber up through climbing roses, creating a bouquet effect with the two types of flowers blooming together. Try it spilling out of a hanging basket, where it can mound, cascade and wind upward all at once. Use it to fill up sections of chainlink fence for a spectacular ‘living wall’ of color, or guide it up a post for a fountain effect. Add even more ‘wow’ when you blend several colors and styles in the same area.

Grow clematis anywhere that you’ve got some sun. It’s happy in the ground or in containers, especially when there’s something planted beneath that will keep the roots nice and cool. The only maintenance it generally requires is once a year pruning; some types don’t even need that. Provide the usual good drainage (as with most things you plant).

There are so many kinds available, most with large flowers- some can get 10″ across! We’ve got lots in stock right now, setting flowerbuds and ready to climb. Come check ‘em out!

'Takara' Itoh peony

We are thrilled to grow Itoh peonies every year. Giant plants that have ripe, colorful buds and blooms, exotic leaves.

'Pink Double Dandy'

The peony has always been my dream flower, with it’s distinctive petals and sweet old-fashioned perfume- almost too perfect looking to be real! A photo doesn’t do this beauty proper justice, and if you’ve seen these blooms in reality you know how breathtaking they are.

We’ve got several different kinds right now, grown in large enough containers so as to readily bloom this year. They’re long-lived perennials that can give you lifelong bouquets, and will thrive here in Sonoma County with minimal care when planted properly.

Fat juicy buds

To start, choose a spot that gets full (or at least afternoon) sun. If you’re putting your peony in the ground, work lots of rich compost like Paydirt into the hole, and add some starter fertilizer like Masterstart. This will not only add proper nutrients like nitrogen and phospherous, but will also break up heavy clay soil and promote good drainage. If you’d like to plant in a container, that’s fine- just use Planting Mix straight from the bag, but don’t forget that starter fertilizer.

'Bowl of Beauty' bush peony

The most recently developed peonies are lush and leafy, with loads of flowers and a more extended bloomtime than old-fashioned kinds. These are the intersectional hybrids called Itoh (ee-toe), a vigorous cross between bush-type and tree-type. You really get the best of both worlds here- flower colors and foliage like the exotic tree peonies, but with the bushier habit and sun tolerance of standard bush peonies.

Cut flower aficionados are just wild about the blooms- extra-large, long-lasting, fragrant, and just downright show-stopping! When you cut a budded stem that is beginning to open, it will continue blooming in the vase for quite a while. Gorgeous!

Cruise on in to check out of our peony selection, and while you’re here we can certainly answer your questions and/or help you pick out the right one for your garden.

'Midas Touch', a hybrid tea

The rose garden is awash in color! We are jam-packed with row after row of bushes, climbers, miniatures and trees of several heights, reaching full spring glory as we speak…

'Voodoo' rose

We are the rose leaders! We only carry premium, grade #1 roses. They are planted, pruned and grown here at King’s-  get the plants, the things you need to plant them, and all the information to go along with it, right here.

If you’re not sure which rose you’re looking for (or not that familiar with roses in general) here are some things to consider:

Location, location, location. Full sun or afternoon sun is best. Pick a spot that gets at least 6 hours a day for best vigor and flowering; any less than that and you may not see much color (and perhaps invite unwanted disease). Simply put, if you have a really shady garden this is not the best plant for you.

Size matters. Ever walked along a sidewalk that’s overgrown with roses? Not a pleasant experience….make sure to be aware of the plant’s expected size at maturity and put it where it can grow to full size. There are all different heights and sizes of roses, so you’re sure to find one that will appeal to you that fits a particular spot.

What’s your type? Choose a rose according to what you most enjoy- do you want to mainly view it in the landscape, will you want to regularly cut bouquets (or both)? Is fragrance important, or just the right color? There are so many types of flowers, in all kinds of colors- pointed, frilly, classic, open, clusters, single-stemmed. No need to settle!

'Purple Splash' climber

You’ll want to give roses regular water. Consistent (monthly) fertilizer will keep the flowers coming, as will cutting off the spent blooms every week or two.

Contact us if you need to know anything else rose-related. Call us at (707) 542-4782 or come on in; we’re open every day 9-5.

'Eureka' lemon tree loaded with fruit

I’ve been collecting citrus trees in my garden these last few years, and I have to admit I’m hooked!

Along with fresh herbs, citrus fruit has become a staple at my house. I keep a large bowl on the table, with lemons, limes, oranges and the occasional grapefruit inevitably outnumbering the other seasonal offerings. Salads, drinks, cooking and baking can always use some fresh juice or zest, and I absolutely relish a good batch of lemon curd now and then…

You can have all kinds citrus in your garden, too. They’re fairly easy to grow, and there are so many different kinds that do well here. The flowers smell phenomenal, plus the ornamental value is nice- glossy,  evergreen leaves create a lush background for the display of fruit.

Planting in containers is just fine (especially with dwarf varieties, since they only top out between 8-12′). You can even graduate in container size as you go, as long as you end up in something about the size of a 1/2 wine barrel. Use Planting Mix straight from the bag, and mix in a nice starter fertilizer (like Masterstart, Surestart). In-ground plantings get started off right when you add plenty of rich compost into the native soil, along with the aforementioned fertilizer. For happy, productive plants, fertilize pretty regularly with citrus food.

Home grown 'Washington Navel' oranges

We carry lots of citrus all through the year, and we make sure to grow the unusual varieties as well as the favorites. Here are a few of the coolest:

Meyer lemons are the tastiest!

‘Meyer’ lemon- there’s a reason these are so popular;  just one taste will tell you why. Full flavored, with a delightful balance between tart and sweet. Ultra productive, too, with year-round fruiting.

‘Bearrs’ (or persian) lime- I call it the ‘Meyer’ of limes. Bigger, juicier, and more flavorful than the kind you’d find at the store, and I must say, this is the tastiest lime I’ve ever tried. Grows better here than any other lime.

young limes

‘Owari Satsuma’ mandarin- hardy and vigorous, with a bushier appearance than other citrus. Plentiful, snack-sized fruit.

For something different, try a few on the more exotic side:

‘Variegated Pink’ lemon- Make pink lemonade! Clear pink flesh inside of green & yellow striped rind, with nice acidity. The foliage is downright gorgeous, with bold cream-colored splashes and bright pink new leaves.

variegated pink lemon leaves

‘Kieffer’ lime- the leaves are used in Asian cooking, as are the small bumpy limes. Deep purple-red new growth is interesting, too.

Calamondon- this is a striking plant in the landscape, with a compact habit and variegated cream and green leaves. The small fruit has a sweet rind and tart pulp, and you eat it whole like a kumquat.

calamondin

You can plant any of these (and many more) right now, so come in and see our selection- there’s a lot to choose from!

It's butterfly season, and we get lots of 'em

Everyone loves butterflies. Kind of like puppies, kittens or baby chicks- when you see them, it makes you go ‘awww.’

These are the ballerinas of the insect world, showing grace with every movement, fluttering and floating effortlessly about. Here in Sonoma County we are visited by many different types, and you can encourage them to visit your garden by planting certain flowers.

a butterfly's dream

Young larvae will need food plants, while adults will go  for nectar. A shallow dish or other regular water source is also part of the plan, as they drink water just like the rest of us. Understand that pesticides are a no-no if you want  these beauties to keep coming around.

Although, ideally, a thriving butterfly garden is somewhat overgrown (in order to sustain a working habitat), you can successfully encourage them to visit your tidy flower beds, as long as there are plenty of worthy blooms to check out. Here are a few candidates:

These are a few of the plants that will be eaten by caterpillars, or larvae, who will turn into glorious adults:

Dicentra, or Bleeding Hearts

Bleeding Hearts- a lilting perennial that blooms in late winter early spring.

Nasturtium- a soft looking, low growing rambler with edible flowers

linaria 'flamenco'

Linaria (toadflax)- sweet mini snapdragons

Sunflowers- we all know what those are!

Penstemon- soft spires of tubular bells; bloom continuously

Hollyhock- tall towers of open-faced flowers; love the sun

Foxglove- lush leaves and large bell-shaped flowers

Here’s a few selections that will provide plentiful nectar to mature butterflies:

stunning delphinium

Delphinium- fat, long cones of many long-lasting flowers. Showy!

Lavender- pleasantly pungent leaves and blooms. Low water, too

Honeysuckle- sweet-smelling vine for full sun or part shade

Lilac- clusters of late winter/spring flowers. Great cut flower

Coneflower (echinachea)- strong-stemmed daisies form prominent cones as they become spent

Sweet Pea- These potently fragrant vines bloom through the cool season

Butterfly Bush (buddleja)- honey-scented conical flower clusters

butterfly bush

Lantana- round clusters of bright flowers. Can be a groundcover or an upright shrub

Flowering Maple- tropical looking, pendulous flowers that resemble hibiscus

Dianthus- sweetly scented, plentiful flowers

A lot of these plants are attractive to other pollinators, and hummingbirds, as well as being drought resistant, deer tolerant. A good many are suitable for cutting bouquets, so you can enjoy the flowers as much as your butterflies do. We stock all these plants and many more, and we’ll gladly help you design your garden and decide just what you need.

Ready for picking!

Soon it will be berry time, and we’ve got a huge crop of plants that will be so LOADED with berries you can barely see the leaves! They will give a harvest the first season and fruit will be produced for months, so they’re gonna give you you’re money’s worth right away.

Why we love blueberries-

Blueberries are an excellent and permanent addition to edible and ornamental landscapes because, thanks to modern breeding, they are very easy to grow. The handsome plants have dark blue-green foliage and attractive pink or white ‘ bell’  blooms in spring, which turn into yummy blue summer berries.

Some even have great autumn color, with a full spectrum of yellow, orange and red. All can be planted in the veggie garden or used in the landscape. All this and the bonus of luscious fruit loaded with anti-oxidants! Since they are a permanent addition to the garden, the yields of berries increase each year.

Planting

In our fabulous gardening climate, blueberries can be planted most anywhere from full sun to part sun. Just be sure the location gets at least a half a day of good sunlight. Since they are long lived, it is a wise idea to amend the soil properly when planting. A wide, fairly shallow planting hole, backfilled with half Master Nursery Planting Mix and half our native soil along with a dollop of Master Start fertilizer would be great. After planting, mulch with a bit of additional Planting Mix to help with moisture retention. Planting distance can be up to 5 feet apart or as close as 3 feet for a hedge effect. Or, intersperse them throughout the garden. Blueberries easily adapt to containers and to make it even easier, you can use Master Nursery Planting Mix straight from the bag. You could even add flowers and herbs to the container for a beautiful effect.

Blueberries are ornamental, too

Care

It’s so easy! The new blueberries are low maintenance, vigorous plants. They like routine water like your other garden plants and monthly feeding March through October with our Camellia Azalea food or our veggie food. Your berries will produce more and bigger fruit with a bit of winter pruning. First remove any dead wood, then thin out about a third of what remains. As the plant grows older, you can select six or so main erect branches to form its permanent structure.

Selection

We select and prefer the southern highbush varieties as they are particularly suitable for us. They love the warm days as well as the cool ones and thrive in our mild winters. Three plants are about the minimum for a family but there are, of course, no limits. Blueberries are self pollinating. So, if you remember 7^th grade science, that means you only need one plant to get some fruit. However, the more the merrier in the world of the birds and bees. In fact, the fruit will be much more prolific if you plant two or more varieties. Also, by mixing varieties you can easily extend your harvest. Some of our favorites (but we love them all)…

Jubilee: Fruits early, nice and upright
Misty: Fruits very early with lots of berries
O’Neal: Another very early variety
Sharpblue: Fruits early to mid season and great to extend the season. Fast grower with big berries.
Star: Fruits early with large berries
Sunshine Blue: Mid season, a more compact plant and evergreen.

Plus others, of course, and please feel free to ask us any questions about blueberries or other parts of your garden. At least in the garden, we want you happy, healthy and successful.

Living Bouquet Basket for shade

King’s has specialized in hanging baskets for many years. None are more fun to make or grow than the mixed baskets of flowers we call Living Bouquets. Planted and maintained correctly, they will give you an entire season of colorful blossoms. Making your own basket can be lots of fun, although quite a challenge for us to explain. The following is a guideline to get you started. If you have questions or need advice, drop by the Nursery; we’ll be happy to help.

What you will need:

A hanging basket, 12” in diameter or larger

A swivel hanger for the basket

Sphagum moss to line the basket

A bucket with water

Quality potting soil – we use MasterNursery “Professional Potting Soil”

Fertilizer – we use a combination of Master Start and Osmocote

A soil polymer such as SoilMoist (optional)

A selection of flowers, veggies, herbs, or greens

We need to grasp the concept that the moss is merely a liner around the basket used to hold in the soil. The moss is easy to work with when wet. That’s why we have the bucket. Submerge the moss in the bucket full of water. With the basket in front of you, take the moist pieces of moss out of the bucket. Smash the piece flat like a hamburger patty. Place the flattened moss in the bottom of the basket. Continue lining the bottom and sides of the basket, slightly overlapping flattened pieces of moss. Continue up the sides until you are about 1/3 of the way up. Remember the moss is merely a liner to hold the soil. There is no reason to completely fill the basket with moss. What you should now have resembles a bird’s nest in the bottom of the basket.

Into the nest, or depression, you want to pack in your potting soil/fertilizer mixture. Bringing it right up to the top of the moss. Your soil mix should consist of 1/3 cubic foot Potting Soil, 1/3 cup Osmocote, 2 Tbsp Master Start, and 1 to 2 Tbsp SoilMoist.

Now come the first of your plants. For a 12” basket, we only want to put 4 plants on the bottom layer. From the inside out – that means you are threading the foliage through the wire from the inside – place one plant at 12 o’clock, one plant at 3 o’clock, one plant and 6 o’clock, and one plant at 9 o’clock. Make sure the foliage extends outside the basket and the roots are inside, in good contact with the soil.

Smash down more moss and line the basket another 1/3 of the way up. Add more soil mixture to the top of the moss, packing down firmly, thus covering the roots of the plants already in the basket. On this layer put 6 plants, bracketing the 4 on the bottom row. When you have placed them to your satisfaction, continue lining the basket with moss all the way to the top, and slightly over the edge of the basket. Fill the basket to about 1” from the top with soil and pack down firmly. Plant 5 or more flowers in the top of the basket; 4 equaly spaced near the edges and one in the middle.

Carefully attach the wire hanger and water thoroughly but gently. You are now ready to hang the basket. Choose a location that is compatible with the plants you have chosen. As the basket matures, it will need more and more water. Daily during the summer is not too much. Water slowly and thoroughly. One gallon applied slowly is more efficient than three gallons squirted on. From time to time we feed with Maxsea, a superior liquid plant food.

When the season ends for your basket, you may salvage the basket, hanger, and some of the better moss. We always start over with new soil, fresh moss, and new plants. This produces a superior basket. That’s the entire procedure. Try not to skip any of the steps or materials as each is very important to the overall health and beauty od the basket. Remember, if you are confused, call or drop by the Nursery and ask for help. All of us at King’s have made many, many baskets and want yours to turn out great!

Finally, here are some guidelines for plant choices for your basket. Remember to put compatible plants together. All the plants in each basket should have similar requirements as to sun, water, etc.

Spring and Summer plants for the sun:

Lobelia

Petunia

Alyssum

Verbena

Marigold

Phlox

Zinnia

Golden Fleece

Bidens

Million Bells

Sanvitalia

Spring and Summer plants for the shade or part sun:

Impatiens

Lobelia

Schizanthus

Nemesia

Begonia

Mimulus

Bacopa

Fuchsia

Fall and Winter plants for sun:

Pansy

Viola

Winter Daisy

Dwarf Snapdragon

Toadflax

maybe Lobelia and Alyssum

Fall and Winter plants for shade and part sun:

English Primrose

Fairy Primrose

Cyclamen

Primula obconica

Ivy

maybe Lobelia, Nemesia, and Schizanthus

Let your imagination run wild. If you discover some new combinations that work for you, we’d love to hear about it…and see pictures!

Annuals:

Ageratum houstonianum – Floss Flower

Alcea species – Hollyhock

Celosia cristata – Cockscomb

Centaurea cyanus – Bachelor’s Button

Cleome spinosa – Spider Flower

Coreopsis species – Coreopsis

Cosmos species – Cosmos

Dyssodia tenuiloba – Dahlberg Daisy

Eschscholzia californica – California Poppy

Gaillardia species – Gaillardia

Gypsophila – Baby’s Breath

Helianthus species – Sunflower

Impatients balsamina – Balsam

Impatiens wallerana – Busy Lizzie

Ipomoea species – Morning Glory

Limonium sinuatum – Statice

Lobelia erinus – Lobelia

Lobularia maritima – Sweet Alyssum

Myostis sylvatica – Forget-Me-Not

Nigella damascena – Love-in-the-Mist

Papaver rhoeas – Shirley Poppy

Portulaca grandiflora – Rose Moss

Salvia species – Sage

Sanvitalia procumbens – Creeping Zinnia

Scabiosa atropurpurea – Pincushion Flower

Senecio cineraria – Dusty Miller

Tithonia rotundiflora – Mexican Sunflower

Perennials:

Achillea species – Yarrow

Alcea rosea – Hollyhock

Aloe species – Aloe

Alstromeria – Peruvian Lily

Anenome japonica

Aquilegia – Columbine

Armeria maritima – Common Thrift

Artemesia species – Wormwood

Artichoke

Aster species – Perennial Asters

Astilbe – Meadow Sweet

Aubrieta deltoidea – Common Aubrieta

Aurinia saxatilis – Perennial Alyssum

Bellis perennis – English Daisy

Beloperone guttata – Shrimp Plant

Bergenia – Saxifraga

Brachycome iberdifolia – Swan River Daisy

Centaurea cineraria – Dusty Miller

Centranthus ruber – Jupiter’s Beard

Chrysanthemum frutescens – Marguerite

Chrysanthemum partenuim – Feverfew

Coreopsis species

Dicentra species – Bleeding Heart

Digitalis species – Foxglove

Echium fastuosum – Pride of Madeira

Erigeron glaucus – Santa Barbara Daisy

Eriogonom species – Buckwheat

Erysimum linifolium – Bowle’s Mauve

Euryops species

Felicia amelloides – Blue Marguerite

Galium odoratum – Sweet Woodruff

Geranium – Cranesbill

Gerbera jamesonii – Transvaal Daisy

Gypsophila – Baby’s Breath

Helichrysum species – Strawflower

Helleborus niger – Christmas Rose

Hemerocallis – Daylily

Heuchera sanguinea – Coral Bells

Iris species

Kniphofia uvaria – Red Hot Poker

Lantana montevidensis – Trailing Lantana

Lavandula species – Lavener

Leonotis leonurus – Lion’s Tail

Limonium – Sea Lavender

Liriope muscari – Lily Turf

Lobelia cardinalis – Cardinal Flower

Lupinus species – Lupine

Lychnis coronaria – Crown Pink

Mimulus – Monkey Flower

Mirabilis – Four O’Clock

Monarda species – Bee Balm

Nepeta faassenii – Catmint

Nierembergia species – Cupflower

Oenothera species – Evening Primrose

Origanum dictamnus – Crete Dittany

Papaver orientale – Oriental Poppy

Penstemon – Beard Tongue

Phlox subulata – Moss Pink

Rudbeckia hirta – Gloriosa Daisy

Ruta graveolens – Common Rue

Salvia species – Sage, Salvia

Santolina chamaecyparissus- Lavender Cotton

Scabiosa columbaria – Pincushion Flower

Silene acaulis – Cushion Pink

Stachys byzantina – Lamb’s Ear

Tagetes lemmonii – Bush Marigold

Tropaeolum – Nasturtium

Tulbaghia violacae – Society Garlic

Verbena peruviana – Peruvian Verbena

Viola odorata – Sweet Violet

Zantendeschia – Calla Lily

Bulbs:

Alstromeria – Peruvian Lily

Amaryllis belladonna – Naked Lady

Begonia – Tuberous Begonia

Canna

Crocosmia – Montbretia

Crocus

Cyclamen

Cymbidium – Terrestrial orchids

Cypripedium californicum – Lady Slipper

Dahlia imperialis – Tree Dahlia

Freesia

Fritillaria imperialis – Crown Imperial

Galanthus elwesii – Giant Snowdrop

Ixia

Muscari – Grape Hyacinth

Narcissus – Daffodil

Scillia – Blue Bells

Watsonia – Bugle Lily

Zantedeschia – Calla Lily

Grasses (and grass-like plants):

Acorus variegatus – Japanese Sweet Flag

Alopecurus pretensis “Aureovariegatus” – Yellow Meadow Foxtail

Arundinaria viridistriata – Dwarf Running Bamboo

Arundo donax – Reed Grass

Briza maxima/media – Quacking Grass

Calamagrostis – Feather Reed Grass

Carex – Sedge Grass

Deschampsia caespitosa – Tufted Hair Grass

Dietes – Fortnight Lily

Festuca – Fescue

Hakonechloa – Golden

Imperata – Japanese Blood Grass

Juncus – Common Rush

Miscanthus – Feather Grass

Molinia – Purple Moor Grass

Pennisetum – Fountain Grass

Phalaris – Ribbon Grass

Phormium – New Zealand Flax

Stipa gigantea – Feather Grass

Vines and Groundcover:

Ajuga reptans – Carpet Bugle

Anthemis nobilis – Chamomile

Bougainvillea species

Campsis species – Trumpet Creeper

Carpobrotus edulis – Ice Plant

Ceratostigma plumbaginoides – Dwarf Plumbago

Chamaemelum nobile – Chamomile

Clematis armandii – Evergreen Clematis

Coprosma kirkii – Creepingn Coprosma

Erodium chamaedryoides – Crane’s Bill

Ficus pumilla – Creeping Fig

Gazania species

Gelsemium sempervirens – Carolina Jasmine

Hedera helix – English Ivy

Herniaria glabra – Green Carpet

Irish moss

Isotoma – Blue Star Creeper

Jasminium species – Jasmine

Juniper species – Juniper

Lithidora diffusa

Lotus berthelotii – Parrot’s Beak

Mint species

Myoporum parvifolium – Creeping Myoporum

Muehlenbeckia – Mattress Vine

Osteospermum fruticosum – Trailing African Daisy

Pachysandra terminalis – Japanese Spurge

Polygonum – Knotweed

Scaevola – Mauve Clusters

Solanum jasminoides – Potato Vine

Stachys byzantina – Lamb’s Ears

Thumbergia alata – Black-Eyed Susan Vine

Thymus species

Vinca species – Periwinkle

Viola odorata – Sweet Violet

Wisteria species – Wisteria

Zauschneria californica – California Fuschia

Trees:

Acer palmatum – Japanese Maples

Aesculus calofirnica – California Buckeye

Albeisia – Silk Tree

Arbutus – Strawberry Tree

Catalpa species

Cinnamomum camphora – Camphor Tree

Conifers: cedar, fir, pine, redwood, spruce

Cotinus coggyria – Smoke Tree

Crataegus species – Ash

Diospyros – Persimmon

Eucalyptus species

Ficus carica – Fruiting Fig

Fraxinus species – Ash

Ginko biloba – Maidenhair Tree

Lagerstroma indica – Crepe Myrtle

Laurus nobilis – Grecian Laurel

Liquidamber styraciflua – Sweet Gum

Magnolia species – Magnolia

Maytenus boaria – Mayten Tree

Olea europaea – Olive

Pistachia chinensis – Chinese Pistache

Podocarpus granatum – Yew Pine

Punica granatum – Pomegranate

Quercus species – Oak

Quince – Fruiting Quince

Rhus species – Sumac

Scinus species – Pepper Tree

Sequoia sempervirens – Coast Redwood

Thuja plicata – Western Red Cedar

Umbellularia californica – California Bay

Bushes and shrubs:

All Ferns

Agapanthus species – Lily of the Nile

Alyogyne huegelii – Blue Hibiscus

Arctostaphylos – Manzanita

Bamboo species

Berberis species – Barberry

Brugmansia – Angel’s Trumpet

Buddleia – Butterfly Bush

Buxus species – Boxwood

Callistemon species – Bottlebrush

Ceanothus – Wild Lilac

Chaenomeles species – Flowering Quince

Choisya ternata – Mexican Mock Orange

Cistus species – Rockrose

Clivia miniata – Kaffir Lily

Coleonema pulchrum – Pink Breath of Heaven

Convovulus cneorum – Bush Morning Glory

Coprosma kirkii – Dwarf Mirror Plant

Cordyline autralis – Dracena Palm

Corokia cotoneaster – Twisted Cotoneaster

Correa pulchella – Australian Fuchsia

Cotoneaster lacteus – Red Clusterberry

Crassula argentea – Jade Plant

Cyperus species – Papyrus

Daphne species – daphne

Dendromecon harfordii – Island Bush Poppy

Dodonaea viscosa – Hop Bush

Dracena species – Dragon Palm

Echium fastuosum – Pride of Madeira

Echium wildpretii – Tower of Jewels

Elaeagnus species – Silverberry

Erica – Heath

Eriogonum arboresscens – Wild Buckwheat

Euphorbia species – Spurge

Fatsia japonica – Japanese Aralia

Feijoa sellowiana – Pineapple Guava

Ferns – all types

Forsythia species – Forsythia

Fremontodendron – Flannel Bush

Garrya elliptica – coastal Silktassle

Gaultheria shallon – Salal

Geranium – Cranesbill

Geranium – scented varieties

Grevellia species – Grevellia

Hakea sauveolens – Sweet hakea

Halimium lasianthum – Sunrose

Hebe buxifolia – Boxleaf Hebe

Helianthemim nummularium – Sun Rose

Heteromeles arbutifolia – Toyon

Hypericum calycinum – St. John’s Wort

Ilex species – Holly

Impatiens oliveri – Snapweed, Poor Man’s Rhododendron

Iris species – Iris

Juniperus species – Juniper

Kniphofia uvaria – Red Hot Poker

Kolkwitzia amabilis – Beauty Bush

Lagerstoemia indica – Crepe Myrtle

Lavandula species – Lavender

Leptospermum species – Tea Tree

Loropetalum chinense – Chinesse Witch Hazel

Lupinus arboreus – Lupine

Mahonia species – Oregon Grape

Melaleuca species – Melaleuca

Melianthus major – Honey Bush

Metrosideros excelsus – New Zealand Christmas Tree

Moraea iridiodes – African Iris

Myoporum species – Myoporum

Myrica californica – Pacific Wax Myrtle

Myrtus communis – Common Myrtle

Nandina domestica – Heavenly Bamboo

Nerium oleander – Oleander

Philadelphus coronarius – Sweet Mock Orange

Philodendron selloum – Bigleaf Philodendron

Phlomis fruiticosa – Jerusalem Sage

Phormium tenax – New Zealand Flax

Pieris species – Pieris

Plumbago auriculata – Cpae Plumbago

Poinciana gilliesii – Bird of Paradise Bush

Potentilla fruiticosa – Bush Cinquefoil

Prostanthera rotundifolia – Mint Bush

Punica granatum – Pomegranate

Quercus – Oak

Rhamnus californica – California Coffeeberry

Rhododendron species – Rhododendron (not Azaleas)

Rhus species – Sumac

Ribes species – Currant, Gooseberry

Romneya coulteri – Matilija Poppy

Rosmarinus officinalis – Rosemary

Ruhus vitifolius – Blackberry

Salvia secies – Salvia, Sage

Sambucus caerulea – Blue Elderberry

Sarcococca species – Sarcococca, Sweet Box

Sollya heterophylla – Australian Bluebell

Strelitzia species – Bird of Paradise

Syringa species – Common Lilac

Syzygium paniculatum – Brush Cherry

Tamaarix species – Tamarisk

Tellima grandiflora – Fringe Cup

Tetrapanax papyruferus – Rice Paper Plant

Teucrium fruticans – Bush Germander

Thuya / Thuja scpecies – Arborvitae

Westringia rosmariniformis – Westringa

Yucca glauca – Small Soapweed